Widely used in aesthetic medicine, the medium peel is a preventive or curative skin care treatment that eliminates the entire epidermis up to its junction with the dermis, at the level of the superficial dermis. It is an intermediate between deep and superficial peeling, and it rejuvenates the skin with a minimum number of side effects. The medium peel can thus rejuvenate the radiance of the face, cleavage or neck.
The principle: how does a medium peel work?
The skin is arranged in two main layers:
- The top is the epidermis, a superficial epithelial layer without vessels, which acts as a barrier. -Underneath is the dermis, a vascularized connective layer, with a supporting, trophic function. The hyaluronic acid of the dermis gives the contour, while the fibers give firmness (collagen) and elasticity (elastin).
A peeling will "peel" different skin layers by removing them, in order to boost natural cell renewal.
The mechanisms differ depending on the layer involved:
- The epidermis is regenerated by the basal germinative base, the first layer of the epidermis located against the superficial dermis. These are simple mitosis.
- The dermis renews itself through young fibroblasts activated from stem cells, due to growth factors. These fibroblasts produce the fibers of the dermis and its hyaluronic acid.
A medium peel will therefore trigger a double skin rejuvenation, involving the dermis and the epidermis.
In order to avoid reaching the deeper dermis, your aesthetic doctor will select the right acid, at the right dilution and with the right duration of action. The distinction between a medium peel and a deep peel is not only related to the selected acid, but also to the intensity of its action.
For example, phenol or resorcinol can be used for a deep peel as well as a medium peel, depending on their dilution and duration of action.
To ensure a margin of safety for a medium facial peel, however, peel specialists prefer to select an acid with easily controllable penetration. Trichloroacetic acid (TCA) is often the solution of choice, at usual concentrations of 12% to 18%.
Indications: what is the purpose of a medium peel?
A medium peel can be used for prevention or as a treatment to rejuvenate the skin of the face, neck or cleavage. It is mainly intended for fair skins of skin phototypes I-IV. Phototypes V-VI should be treated with a mild medium peel such as Mela Peel. The medium peel is ideal for :
- Regaining a luminous complexion by reducing age spots or other pigmentation spots (melasma), due to a photorejuvenation effect;
- Rejuvenating the skin by attenuating wrinkles or fine lines;
- Correcting skin imperfections such as dilated pores, scars, actinic keratosis, stretch marks, acne...
- Strengthening the epidermis and the dermis, for a younger and more sensual skin.
The TCA facial peeling process
This medium peel performed at the New-York Clinique des Champs Elysées involves preparatory and follow-up care at home. The procedure is identical for the face, cleavage, neck or hands.
Before your medium peel appointment
Your peeling specialist will prescribe a daily local treatment for about 3 weeks. The aim is to block the activity of pigment cells (melanocytes) and to exfoliate the stratum corneum.
During the TCA peel appointment
Depending on the skin and the indications, your doctor will apply the appropriate product at the right concentration. For a TCA, he generally selects a concentration between 12 to 18%, sometimes as high as 30% on a few well-targeted areas.
After cleansing the skin, TCA is applied with a pad or brush, in liquid or semi-gel form. The patient may feel a slight tingling sensation as the skin whitens due to frosting or icing.
At the end of the peel, your doctor neutralizes the reaction and cleanses the skin by rinsing it well. An emollient treatment soothes redness.
After the TCA peel session
For 2/3 days after a medium peel, irritation or slight oedema are common after a medium peel. The skin will peel with sometimes brown tones over the course of a week. After this, a beautiful pink, soft and rejuvenated skin will appear.
Emollient care and sun protection are essential.
Results of the TCA peel
A single medium peel is often sufficient, to be repeated 1 to 3 times a year. The results of a medium peel before/after are visible in a few days, with an optimal result in 3 to 4 weeks for dermal renewal: your skin is rejuvenated, more radiant, softer and more sensual.
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